3 Days in Oaxaca (2023)
Plaza Santo Domingo
Oaxaca (pronounced wa-HAH-kah) is the richest Mexican state in terms of ethnic and linguistic diversity and the third most biologically diverse state after Chiapas and Veracruz. Oaxaca surely has it all: archaeological sites, colonial heritage, handicrafts, traditions that are still alive and cherished, pristine beaches, great music and excellent food. I particularly loved the nature and I probably took more pictures of the flame trees and the tall cacti than I did of anything else. I had been living in Mexico City for a couple of years before this trip, but I wasn't prepared for the visual experience Oaxaca welcomed me with.
Unless you are planning to see the beaches, which are a little far from Oaxaca de Juárez (a 5 or 6-hour drive), three days will be enough for you to get a feel for this culturally rich state.
There are 5 magical towns here: Capulalpam de Méndez, Huautla de Jiménez, San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula, San Pablo Villa de Mitla, and Mazunte. I included only San Pablo Villa de Mitla in this itinerary as it is close to Oaxaca de Juárez, the city I recommend exploring first.
Check out Oaxaca-born singer Lila Downs' short promotional tourism video. I think it superbly captures the soul of Oaxaca and it is very inspirational too.
1.1. Breakfast at Del Jardín Cafeteria
1.3. Catedral Metropolitana Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
1.5. Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
1.7. La Casa de las Artesanías de Oaxaca
1.10. Dinner at Tierra del Sol Cocina Mixteca
2. Day 2. Hierve el Agua, Mitla, Teotitlán, Tule
2.7. Dinner at Las Quince Letras
3. Day 3. Monte Albán, Oaxaca de Juárez
3.1. Breakfast at Restaurante Monte Albán
4. Where to stay in Oaxaca de Juárez
Day 1
Oaxaca de Juárez
La botana oaxaqueña (an excellent selection of Oaxacan cuisine)
📍 Portal Las Flores, Centro
📅 8 am - 11 pm daily
💚 Try: la botana oaxaqueña (Oaxacan beef, chilli seasoned beef jerky, guacamole, cheese, chorizo, grasshoppers and stuffed pepper)
El Zócalo
Start your adventure in the heart of Oaxaca de Juárez, the capital of the state. You will probably hear the word 'zócalo' quite a a lot, and not only in Oaxaca. The word is often used to refer to the main square of a Mexican city or town. The zócalo you are going to see today is a bustling park that will engage all your senses. Walk around and enjoy the energy of this place with its street vendors, marimba songs and colonial arcades.
In 1987, the historic center of Oaxaca de Juárez and the archaeological site of Monte Albán were declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
9 am - 6 pm daily
La Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption) was built in the 16th century in Neoclassical style. Its façade was made of green cantera, a volcanic rock typically found in many Oaxacan buildings.
Jardín Etnobotánico
10 am - 1 pm, 3 pm - 6 pm daily
Guided tours in English only at 11 am Mon-Sat
Entry fee: 100 MXN
This spectacular ethnobotanical garden covers 5.6 ac (2.3 ha) and it is home to over 1,000 species which include agave, cacti and orchids. It owes its existence to Oaxacan artist and activist Franciso Toledo, who initiated the project in 1993 with the support of civil association PRO-Oaxaca. Their joint effort prevented the conversion of the Santo Domingo de Guzmán Convent into a parking lot and led to the creation of the Santo Domingo Cultural Center, which now includes the Museum of Cultures and the ethnobotanical garden.
The garden tour was my favorite activity in Oaxaca de Juárez and I can't recommend it enough. You will get to learn about the local flora and you will take a magical walk around tall cacti and exotic fruit trees.
Frangipani trees
Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
10 am - 6:30 pm Tue-Sun
This 16th-century Baroque convent was built by the Dominican Order. Although its architecture can be admired at any time of the day, it is at sunset that people say it looks particularly beautiful and it can best be appreciated. The church was visited by Pope John Paul II in 1979.
Right in front of the convent there is a small square, Plaza Santo Domingo, where most local festivals are organized.
Lunch at Casa Mayordomo
📍 Calle Macedonio Alcalá 302, Ejidal
📅 8 am - 10 pm daily
💚 Try: enchiladas oaxaqueñas de mole negro rellenas de pollo (shredded chicken, sour cream, cheese and chili peppers wrapped in flour tortillas topped with Oaxacan mole sauce)
La Casa de las Artesanías de Oaxaca
9 am - 9 pm Mon-Sat
10 am - 8 pm Sun
This beautiful handicraft store is the project of 54 families of Oaxacan artisans who are sharing their folk art with the world. You will see here traditional handicrafts from 8 regions of Oaxaca.
Typical local handicrafts you will find in this store:
🌞 black clay pottery
🌛 wooden alebrijes (brightly colored miniature sculptures of Mexican mythical creatures)
🌞 traditional clothing
🌛 palm fiber woven baskets
🌞 wool rugs
You can also order your favorite handicrafts 👉here.
Museo Textil
11 am - 8 pm Mon-Sat
11 am - 6 pm Sun
Free entry
Huipiles, traditional cotton blouses
The museum is located in an 18th-century colonial house and it exhibits nine private collections of traditional Oaxaca-style clothing. The most common item you will see here and in all handicraft stores and markets is the huipil (pronounced wi-PIL), a traditional cotton blouse worn by women in Mexico and Guatemala.
Barrio de Jalatlaco
Part of the beauty of visiting Oaxaca de Juárez is exploring its streets and barrios (neighborhoods). Jalatlaco, one of its most picturesque barrios, will take you back to a time when Oaxacans lived a simpler life. There are almost no modern buildings here and the place preserves the atmosphere of a small Mexican town with cobbled streets and houses made of adobe and cantera. A beautiful addition to this already aesthetic town are the creative murals you will see on the façades of many houses.
You might want to check out:
📷 the Temple of San Matías Jalatlaco
It is a great dining option if you choose to stay in Jalatlaco for dinner.
Dinner at Tierra del Sol Cocina Mixteca
📍 Reforma 411, Centro
📅 7:30 am - 11 pm daily
💚 Try: tlayudas (blue corn tortillas with beans, cheese and rib eye steak), tetelas (triangular corn dough pockets stuffed with beans, avocado, costeño chilli pepper, beef jerky, chorizo and suadero beef)
Day 2
Hierve el Agua, Mitla, Teotitlán, Tule
📍 Portal, Av Benito Juárez 116, Centro
📅 8 am - 12 am daily
💚 Try: omelette de rajas con elote (omelet with chili pepper strips and corn), omelette de flor de calabaza (squash flower omelet)
Hierve el Agua
9 am - 7 pm daily
Entry fee: 50 MXN
The small waterfall with its natural pools
Hierve el Agua is a set of natural rock formations located in the town of San Lorenzo Albarradas almost 37 mi (60 km) from the historic center of Oaxaca de Juárez. The waterfall-resembling formations were created over thousands of years by the mineral-saturated spring water that trickles over the cliffs. There are two petrified waterfalls that attract tourists: the small waterfall (also knows as 'the Amphitheater'), which contains natural and artificial pools, and the large waterfall that can be admired from the Amphitheater.
This natural wonder is located in Mixe territory. The Mixe are an important indigenous group who still preserve their traditions and speak their own language. Little is known about their life before the conquest, but it is known that they were never subdued by the Spanish and they still take pride in the fact that they were never conquered. They still use the 260-day Mesoamerican calendar, they are polytheists and they believe that every human has an animal twin spirit.
Make sure you arrive there as early as possible, preferably before 9:30, as it can get crowded.
The large waterfall
San Pablo Villa de Mitla
Iglesia de San Pablo (16th-century church)
Located 27.5 mi (44.3 km) from Oaxaca de Juárez, with a population of 13,587 (2020), magical town San Pablo Villa de Mitla is home to the second most important archaeological site in Oaxaca and it is also a major handicraft hub.
Visit the Zapotec ceremonial center, the San Pablo Church and the handicraft market.
Lunch at Yälnadoo
📍 Lázaro Cárdenas 3, Los Presidentes, Centro
📅 9 am - 6:30 pm daily
💚 Try: tlayudas de tasajo (thin toasted tortillas topped with Oaxacan beef and cheese, avocado, lettuce and refried beans)
Teotitlán del Valle
18.6 mi (30 km) from Oaxaca de Juárez lies Teotitlán Del Valle, founded in 1465 by the Zapotecs and renowned for its textiles.
You might want to visit at least one of these workshops to better understand the Zapotec masters' craft:
📷 Casa Don Taurino
📍 20 de Noviembre 15, Tecutlan
📅 9 am - 7 pm daily
📷 Casa Don Juan Zapotec Weavings
📍 Antonio de León 4, Tecutlan
📅 9 am - 7 pm daily
📷 Taller Huella Carmín & Nashun Pets
📍 Emiliano Zapata 6, Tecutlan
📅 9 am - 8 pm Mon
8 am - 8 pm Tue-Sun
📷 Isaac Vásquez Studio
📍 Avenida Al. Hidalgo 30, Centro
📅 9 am - 7 pm daily
Santa María del Tule
Stop in Santa María del Tule to see the famous tree of Tule, a Montezuma cypress that has the largest trunk diameter in the world (137.8 ft / 42 m) and is around 2,000 years old (some claim that it might be 3,000 years old).
Dinner at Las Quince Letras
📍 Calle de Mariano Abasolo 300, Centro
📅 8:30 am - 10 pm daily
💚 Try: coloradito oaxaqueño de fiesta (chicken or pork in traditional mole sauce served with rice)
Day 3
Monte Albán, Oaxaca de Juárez
Maize god Cintéotl is watching over our breakfast at Restaurante Monte Albán
📍 71233 Monte Albán
📅 10 am - 4 pm daily
💚 Try: the breakfast combos
The archaeological site
9 am - 3:30 pm daily
Entry fee: 90 MXN
One of the first cities in Mesoamerica, Monte Albán was founded around 500 BC and it was the capital of the Zapotecs from the beginning of our era until around 800 AD, when due to political conflicts it was abandoned by the elite and most of the population. It is believed that about 35,000 people lived here during its peak years .
The three main structures of this ancient city had a ceremonial purpose. They are Plataforma Sur (the Southern Platform), el Juego de Pelota Grande (the Big Ball Game) and el Edificio de los Danzantes (the Dancers' Building, also known as 'the L Building'). See the map of the site 👉here.
The markets
Built in 1882, Mercado 20 de Noviembre boasts a wide variety of Oaxacan food. There is even a grilled meat aisle known as Pasillo de Humo (the Smoke Corridor) where you can select the type of meat you would like to try and ask the vendor to cook it according to your preference. Don't forget to add grilled onions and prickly pear cactus to your order for a more authentic culinary experience.
Not far from 20 de Noviembre you will find Mercado de Artesanías, the handicraft market (12 am - 7 pm daily) and Mercado Benito Juárez (9 am - 5 pm Mon-Fri), where you will find a wide selection of handicrafts and traditional candy.
La Casa del Mezcal (est. 1935)
📍 Flores Magón 209
📅 11 am - 3 am daily
Back in Oaxaca de Juárez, we have to at least try a traditional mezcal before we leave. Mezcal is an agave-based alcoholic beverage that is very popular here and around Mexico. Although it can be made from different types of agave, it is usually made from agave espadín, which is primarily grown in Oaxaca.
🥃 Listen to Oaxacan singer Lila Downs' 👉Mezcalito, a song that goes perfectly with any mezcal variety.
🥃 Learn more about mezcal 👉here.
Dinner at Los Danzantes
📍 Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403-interior 4, Centro
📅 1 pm - 10:30 pm Sun-Tue
1 pm - 11:30 pm Wed-Sat
💚 Try: pechuga de pollo rellena de quesillo y flor de calabaza (chicken breast stuffed with Oaxacan cheese and squash flower dipped in mole sauce)
Where to stay in Oaxaca de Juárez
📍 Constitucion 206
📍 Miguel Hidalgo 1013
📍 Calle Valerio Trujano 206, Centro
Airport shuttle available
📍 Manuel Garcia Vigil 306, Centro
📍 212 Calle Porfirio Díaz, Centro
Airport shuttle available
How to get around
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Didi is the most popular taxi app.
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A reliable taxi service is 👉Taxi Aeropuerto y Tours Oaxaca.
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To explore the tourist attractions that are outside Oaxaca de Juárez you could rent a car, of course, but I highly recommend joining a guided tour. 👉Monte Albán Tours will take you to Hierve el Agua, Mitla, Teotitlán and Tule on a one-day trip (10 am - 7 pm). They will pick you up from your hotel.
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If you choose to travel on your own, take a bus from Oaxaca de Juárez to Mitla (see the schedule 👉here, then take a taxi to Hierve el Agua. Although Hierve el Agua is only 14.2 mi (23 km) from Mitla, it takes about 40 minutes to get there because of the mountain dirt roads. The landscape here is spectacular!
💡 In 2023 Oaxaca is the 7th safest state in Mexico, so it is safe to walk around and explore Oaxaca de Juárez on foot. The small towns are even safer.