San Pedro Atocpan
San Pedro Atocpan (atocpan = 'fertile land' in the Aztec language) is one of the 12 towns that make up Milpa Alta, a predominantly rural borough of only 152,685 inhabitants. In 2011 it was officially declared barrio mágico (magical neighborhood).
Milpa Alta is famous for the traditional mole sauce that is such an important part of Mexican cuisine. Mole originated in either Puebla or Oaxaca and can now be found in a wide variety of flavors. What is impressive about this sauce is the combination of ingredients. For example, the black mole, one of the most popular recipes, is made with at least three types of chili peppers, banana, ginger, onions, tomatoes, cloves, black pepper, tortillas, avocado leaves, oregano, thyme, cumin, cinnamon, chocolate, sugar, sesame, almonds, walnuts and peanuts.
San Pedro Atocpan produces most of the mole sauce that is sold in Mexico City, with most of its population working in the mole industry. The town also created its own recipe: the nutty mole (mole almendrado) and it has been organizing a national mole fair every year since 1976. In 2023 the mole fair will take place on the Xochimilco-Oaxtepec Highway (km 17.5) from September 30th to October 22nd.
The prickly pear cactus (nopal) fields are another attraction in San Pedro Atocpan. Over 90% of the prickly pear cacti sold in Mexico City are grown in Milpa Alta. You will see cactus fields along the Xochimilco-Oaxtepec Highway.
San Pedro Atocpan will give you a cozy feel for small town life in Mexico (you won't believe you are still in Mexico City!) and you will get to enjoy the quiet side of the capital, with its amazing cuisine and the hilly landscapes you will probably fall in love with.
1. What to see
1.1. Plaza San Martín
1.2. Parroquia de San Pedro Apóstol
1.3. Santuario del Señor de las Misericordias
1.4. The mole stores
2. Where to eat
2.1. Mole Don Pancho
2.2. La Cabaña de Nuestra Provincia
2.3. Unicornio
What to see
Capilla de San Martín
Plaza San Martín lies at the center of San Pedro Atocpan, so this is where we'll begin our adventure. This small square is surrounded by the town's best restaurants and local businesses. The pink San Martín Chapel rises opposite the Yencuictlalpan kiosk and the white benches will remind you of the main square of Tlalpan. La Estrella Michoacana, the famous ice cream sorbet shop is strategically located on the corner of Tlaloc and Miguel Hidalgo, so you might want to have an ice cream in the park before walking around Plaza San Martín, enjoying the small town atmosphere and mingling with the locals.
📷 Parroquia de San Pedro Apóstol
10 am - 1:30 pm, 4 pm - 7 pm Mon-Tue, Fri
10:30 am - 2 pm, 4 pm - 7 pm Thurs
10 am - 2 pm Sat
This beautiful convent was founded in 1680 by Franciscan friars, and it was declared a historic landmark in 1933. San Pedro (Saint Peter) is celebrated on June 29th, the best time to visit the church because you will get to see the local traditions related to this holiday.
📷 Santuario del Señor de las Misericordias
10 am - 5 pm daily
This new church, opened in 1977, will introduce you to a much older legend, a black Jesus Christ sculpture made of corn cane paste that dates from the 16th century. It is not known who created this sculpture but it has been venerated here for centuries. The sculpture's previous home was the San Martín Chapel, which was actually built in order to shelter the black Christ.
The church was built on a hill, so the climb up there is an adventure in itself and the views from the top are spectacular
📷 The mole stores
Explore the many mole recipes that the town takes pride in and visit some of its stores. Apart from mole, in this type of stores you will also find dry chili peppers and seeds.
🥘 Moles América
📍 Avenida Miguel Hidalgo 51
📅 7 am - 9 pm Mon-Sat
7 am - 6 pm Sun
🥘 Mole San José
📍 Avenida Miguel Hidalgo 4
📅 6 am - 9 pm Mon-Fri
6:45 am - 6:30 pm Sat
6 am - 5 pm Sun
🥘 Moles Virrey
📍 Niños Heroes 52
📅 7 am - 9 pm daily
🥘 Moles Toñita
📍 Niños Heroes 8-Local A
📅 6 am - 9 pm Mon-Sat
6 am - 2 pm Sun
🥘 Mole Chio
📍 Avenida Miguel Hidalgo 66
📅 7 am - 9 pm daily
Where to eat
For breakfast:
Mole Don Pancho
📍 Avenida Hidalgo 68
📅 8 am - 5 pm Mon-Fri
8 am - 6 pm Sat-Sun
💚 Try: the breakfast combos
For lunch and dinner:
La Cabaña de Nuestra Provincia
📍 Prolongación Guadalupe Victoria 27
📅 10 am - 7 pm Mon-Fri
10 am - 8 pm Sat-Sun
💚 Try: sopa de nopal (prickly pear cactus soup), enchiladas a los tres moles (chicken-stuffed rolled tortillas topped with three types of mole)
Unicornio
📍 Avenida Miguel Hidalgo 194
📅 8 am - 10 pm daily
💚 Try: mole con pollo (chicken topped with mole and served with rice)
