The Day of the Dead
Day of the Dead altar (ofrenda) at Museo Andrés Quintana Roo, San Andrés Mixquic, Mexico City
When it is celebrated
The holiday most commonly associated with Mexico, the Day of the Dead (el Día de Muertos) is celebrated on November 2nd, but since it is believed that some of the souls start visiting the altars earlier, people start decorating homes, restaurants, schools and parks in the last week of October.
According to tradition, this is the order in which the souls of the departed visit their loved ones:
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October 27th: the souls of the pets
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October 28th: the souls of those who died in accidents or who had a violent death
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October 29th: the souls of the drowned
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October 30th: the souls of the forgotten
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October 31st: the souls of the unborn
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November 1st: the souls of children (under 12)
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November 2nd: all the other souls
The origin
There are two opposing theories in Mexico. There are those who claim the holiday is of pre-Hispanic nature, but there are also historians who discard the native origin of the Day of the Dead, saying that the current traditions have more to do with Medieval European rites than with indigenous customs. It is worth mentioning that President Lázaro Cárdenas (1934 - 1940) promoted Mexican nationalism and pre-Hispanic traditions. His anti-clerical policies might have led to a rejection of the Catholic nature of this holiday (All Souls' Day) and the emphasis of its pre-Hispanic origin.
It is true that most of the pre-Hispanic beliefs and traditions were suppressed during the Spanish conquest, and there is little information about how the Aztecs celebrated their dead. We do know that one of their practices consisted in setting up altars near the tombs of warriors.
Without a doubt, the current Day of the Dead traditions are a fusion of pre-Hispanic and European rites that is still undergoing changes. One of the latest changes would be the the Day of the Dead parade itself, which was held for the first time on October 29th, 2016. It was inspired by the opening scene of 'Spectre' (the 2015 James Bond movie), which featured skeleton parade floats.
The altar
The altar (la ofrenda) is the most important Day of the Dead tradition. Most Mexicans set up the altar on October 28th and keep it until November 3rd.
Most altars include some of these items:
💀 Mexican marigolds (cempasúchil) that are meant to guide the souls to the altars
💀 pictures of the deceased
💀 pan de muerto (sweetened soft bread decorated with bone-shaped pieces and sprinkled with white sugar)
💀 fruit and water
💀 beverages and dishes that the deceased enjoyed in life
💀 candles
💀 papel picado (perforated tissue paper with elaborate designs in vivid colors)
💀 sugar, chocolate and/or amaranth skulls
💀 Day of the Dead decorations like Catrina figurines
💀 burned copal incense (still used during sacred ceremonies by the indigenous people)
💀 religious symbols like the cross or images of saints or Virgin Mary
💀 tapetes de arena (colored sand rugs)
La Catrina
Catrinas in traditional costumes at Museo Andrés Quintana Roo, San Andrés Mixquic, Mexico City
Around 1910, Mexican lithographer José Guadalupe Posada created the first etching of the now famous La Catrina (catrín = elegant and conceited), a female skeleton figure wearing a large hat adorned with flowers and feathers. The image was intended to satirize the Mexican upper class women of the Porfiriato era (1876 - 1911), who were trying to emulate European fashions. At the same time, it represented the idea that death does not discriminate based on social class. Posada wrote: 'La muerte es democrática, ya que a fin de cuentas, güera, morena, rica o pobre, toda la gente acaba siendo calavera.' (Death is democratic because in the end, white or brown, rich or poor, all people end up being skulls.)
La Catrina became a symbol of Mexican culture thanks to muralist Diego Rivera, who developed Posada's character into a full body figure that he included in his famous painting Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central Park (1946-1947).
Today, La Catrina is the main character associated with the Day of the Dead. There is a Catrina parade, Catrina figurines made of wood, black clay or papier-mâché that you can find in most markets, and you can even have your face painted to look like La Catrina in many parks around Mexico City and in the Zócalo. You could also contact 👉Face Art México for a professional makeup before your Halloween or Day of the Dead party.
Calavera de la Catrina (Catrina skull), by José Guadalupe Posada, c. 1910
Day of the Dead activities (2023)
If you are in Mexico City around this time, I recommend staying in the city on the Day of the Dead (November 2nd). Traveling out of the city on this day (even the day before) might be a little challenging because of the heavy traffic. At the same time, popular Day of the Dead destinations like San Andrés Mixquic in Mexico City and Pátzcuaro in the state of Michoacán are saturated with tourists, so unless you don't mind the crowds, I don't recommend visiting these otherwise fascinating places on this day. Do visit them two or three days before.
So here is my list of top recommendations for this year's Day of the Dead:
💀 San Andrés Mixquic (Mexico City) with 👉Aztec Explorers
📅 October 21, 29
November 2nd (very crowded on this day), 4th
💲 950 MXN
💀 Pátzcuaro (Michoacán) with 👉Aztec Explorers
📅 November 1
💲 1,450 MXN
💀 the marigold fields of Atlixco (Puebla) with 👉Aztec Explorers
📅 October 22
November 4
💲 950 MXN
💀 the sugar skull festival in Toluca (Edomex) and Metepec (Edomex) with 👉Aztec Explorers
📅 October 21, 29
💲 950 MXN
💀 the Catrina parade
📍 Ángel de la Independencia
📅 October 22
6:45 pm
💀 MegaOfrenda de la UNAM
📍 Estadio Olímpico Universitario: Avenida de los Insurgentes Sur S/N, Ciudad Universitaria
📅 November 1, 2
10 am - 9 pm
This event is organized by the National Autonomous University of Mexico. It is an impressive exhibition of altars created by students, teachers and other members of the university community.
💀 Candlelight: Día de Muertos (candlelit concert)
📍 El Cantoral, Puente Xoco s/n-Puerta A, Xoco
📅 November 1
7 pm, 9:30 pm
💲 249 MXN - 469 MXN
Buy the tickets here.
💀 Festival del pan de muerto y el chocolate (bread of the dead and chocolate festival)
📍 Palacio de Autonomía de la UNAM: Licenciado Primo de Verdad 2, Centro, Cuauhtémoc
📅 November 3, 4, 5
10 am - 8 pm
💲 20 MXN
The Day of the Dead in San Andrés Mixquic