Xochimilco
Xochimilco (pronounced So-chi-MIL-co) is a fascinating borough that will give you a feel for how the Aztecs lived in their capital city before the Spanish conquest.
The Aztec capital Tenochtitlán was a small settlement back then built on six lakes, which in the rainy season became one lake, Texcoco, of 772.20 mi² (2000 km²). In spite of this inhospitable setting, the Spanish decided to settle here and immediately initiated projects to expand the city and build dams to prevent flooding. Eventually a drainage canal was built, a project that was not inaugurated until 1900.
Xochimilco still boasts canals and floating gardens (chinampas), and although the canals are the main attraction on this side of the city, I also recommend exploring the rest of the neighborhood, which preserves the bustling atmosphere of a pre-Hispanic town.
1. What to see
1.1. The canals
1.2. Catedral de Xochimilco
1.3. Mercado de Xochimilco
1.4. Plaza de San Juan Bautista
2. Where to eat
2.1. Lina Xochimilco
2.2. Pozoleria "Flor de Maíz"
2.3. Roma Café Xochimilco
2.4. Cake of Chocolat
2.5. Pulquería Agave 69
What to see
📷 The canals
You can cruise the canals in a boat called trajinera, which can easily fit 15 people. The shortest canal trip can be completed in one hour, but I recommend a two or three-hour tour where you could visit some interesting places along the way like the floating gardens, the ajolote museum (a Pokémon-looking amphibian that can only be found in the canals of Xochimilco) and the flower market (you will see carnivorous flowers here).
There is another attraction a little further down the canal known as the Island of the Dolls, a supposedly haunted floating garden covered in thousands of dolls that are hanging from the trees. Read the story of this mysterious island 👉here.
During the trip you will meet boat vendors who sell handicrafts, food and drinks, and even mariachi bands that will sing for you.
I recommend booking your canal tour with 👉reservacionestrajitours.com. The fees range from 275 MXN (the one-hour tour) to 1,400 MXN (the five-hour tour).
The bustling atmosphere on the canals
📷 Catedral de Xochimilco
7 am - 8 pm Mon-Sat
6:30 am - 9 pm Sun
The Cathedral of Xochimilco, also known as the San Bernardino de Siena Church, was built by Franciscan missionaries in ∼1535. The presence of this cathedral in Xochimilco led to stronger ties between the Spanish and the local indigenous population in the area in the 16th century.
📷 Mercado de Xochimilco
8 am - 8 pm daily
There is no better place to soak in the small town bustle than the main market where they sell a wide range of local food and countless flowers. After all, Xochimilco ('flower field' in the Aztec language) is the place to buy flowers, especially succulents and cacti.
📷 Plaza de San Juan Bautista
In San Juan Bautista Park you will see a 500-year old Montezuma cypress tree planted by Aztec king Cuauhtémoc in honor of the Xochimilcas, the local indigenous group. Unfortunately, a part of the thick trunk collapsed in 2018, but the tree still attracts many visitors.
Where to eat
For breakfast:
Lina Xochimilco
📍 Calle 5 de Mayo 82, Xaltocan
📅 10 am - 4 pm Tue-Fri
10 am - 5 pm Sat-Sun
💚 Try: huevos Oaxaca (scrambled eggs with Oaxaca cheese dipped in green sauce and served with refried beans), enchiladas enmoladas rellenas de pollo (chicken-stuffed enchiladas with mole sauce)
For lunch and dinner:
Pozoleria "Flor de Maíz"
📍 Calle Lírio Acuático 25, Xaltocan
📅 11:30 am - 10 pm Mon-Fri
10:30 am - 10 pm Sat-Sun
💚 Try: pozole de pollo (hominy stew with chicken)
For coffee:
Roma Café Xochimilco
📍 16050 126, Pergolas, Jardines del Sur
📅 9 am - 11 pm daily
For dessert:
Cake of Chocolat
📍 Calle Violeta 45, San Cristóbal
📅 9 am - 9 pm daily
For pulque:
Pulquería Agave 69
📍 Avenida Mexico 52, San Antonio
📅 10 am - 11 pm Mon
10 am - 10:30 pm Tue
10 am - 9 pm Wed-Sun
📜 Pulque is an agave-based fermented beverage that is still popular around Mexico. It was the sacred drink of the Aztec upper class.
